I recently returned from a vacation in Arequipa city. In between oogling architecture, eating
multiple daily ice creams, and making fun of the pant choices of European men,
my friends and I decided to climb one of the picturesque snow-covered volcanoes
surrounding the city. We settled on
Chachani, which soars to 6,075 meters.
Now, I was confident.
I live at 4,100 meters and am a marginally high functioning, currently
parasite-free adult. What would 2,000
more meters be? On top of that, base
camp was at 5,100m, so we only had a thousand to climb on the day of the
ascent. Piece of keke.
There’s nothing quite like the realization that your
self-confidence was completely misplaced, but we’ll get to that later.
We rode out of Arequipa and after a stretch on the highway,
turned off onto a dirt road where shortly after, we got a flat.
Thankfully, it was a nice day.
Just as we were ready to be on our way, our driver blacked
out from the altitude. He was fine, and
we refused to take it as a portentous sign.
No problem.
We eventually made it to the drop-off point feeling
hydrated, sugared-up, and confident.
This feeling dissipated as soon as we started hiking.
We were a bit above 5,000m, and felt the altitude, taking
deep breaths and fighting away fuzzy edges in our peripheral vision. Slowly, slowly, we made our way to base camp.
Our guide, Jose, was a champ. I can’t emphasize enough how he took care of
us and kept us positive. When I was
freezing, teary eyed, retching, and generally cursing the world on the
mountain, he got me going again. But
that comes later.
Here the ladies are posing with the route up the mountain.
The camera’s perspective significantly
flattened it. The path was
imposing. Thankfully, we got to laze
around camp for the afternoon and rest up. I was wandering around camp in the mid-afternoon wondering why I could see my breath. It wasn't too cold yet. It took me a while to realize that it was the dry mountain air sucking the moisture from my body.
Our bellies protested our noodley dinner.
All of our blood was being dedicated to basic
body functions and general survival, so none wanted to be directed to our
stomachs for digestion. We ate some
anyway, since we knew we’d need the energy.
This photo is of the sunrise, and we were already well up
the mountain.
We woke up at 1:30 in the morning to begin hiking at 2. It wasn’t like we were going to get a lot of sleep
anyway. My heart was racing as I lay in
my sleeping bag and I had to consciously take deep breaths in through my mouth
to keep from hyperventilating. That was the point when my confidence that I’d be able to sashay up the
mountain started to wane.
We began trudging at 2.
It was difficult. Every step
required focused effort. As we climbed
higher into darkness, the air thinned further.
I felt increasingly wobbly and couldn’t tell if my blurred vision was
due to nearly blacking out, or because it was nighttime. I was so dehydrated that sips of orange Gatorade
tasted like Ocean flavored Fanta. My
toes were frozen and my core would get chilled during our breaks despite layers
of down and fleece. I look like some
kind of misguided early 2000’s preppy kid with multiple popped collars.
I was listening to either Beyonce or Queen, and still wasn't pumped.
There was some vomiting, a few tears, but we kept at it.
Daybreak was a blessing.
The sun warmed our extremities and let us see how far we had come. With a few more hours of trudging, we made it
to the top!
Arequpia far below.
There more tears and some dramatic attitude
adjustments. We frolicked around in the
snow and congratulated ourselves for being kickass.
The descent was much easier.
We were exhausted and hungry, but the soil was soft and we skipped and
skated all the way down.
We even took some breaks.
Jose, per usual, had the situation under control.
Once at the
bottom, there was a bit more vomiting and a rickety hike back to the pick-up
point, but we did it!
We were accompanied by some cute mammals on the way
back.
Andean fox.
Viscacha.
Vicuna.
It was amazing, I feel very accomplished, and also like I
don’t need to do that again for a while.